# Leeds (Victorian Holbeck)



## phill.d (Oct 20, 2010)

A walk around Victorain Holbeck, Leeds. 





This artists impression of Holbeck in the 1880's shows just how important this place was during the industrial revolution in Leeds. Much of Holbeck has changed over the years, even in the last four years i've photographed it. The Holbeck regeneration programme is in full swing, and i thought it was about time i captured some of the hidden places, and derelict Victorian engineering feats before there lost for good. 

The area may becoming upmarket with new business's, cafes, and bars opening, but you don't need to scratch far under the surface to see evidence of the thriving Red light area it became in the 1990's. I've mainly included the impressive closed viaduct, the stone setted culvert that once powered the many mills and factories, and some of the bleak ginnels, subways and yards around the area. 





The viaduct is commonly known as the Holbeck viaduct these days, but in railwaymans terms it's proper title was the Farnley viaduct. The Farnley viaduct was built by the London & North Western railway company in 1882. The viaduct is built of black engineering bricks, and it's great brooding hulk cuts right through the heart of Holbeck. The viaduct extends from Gelderd Road to Globe Road into the City station network. It is a construction of masonry arches, with six metal bridge sections spanning highways and railway track. The viaduct boasts 85 arches, three accommodation bridges, and six under-bridges and fly-over passes.

The Leeds Newspaper in 1869 proudly proclaimed "The new viaduct is an undertaking which will rank among the many great engineering feats in the annals of railway enterprise"




This 1960's shot shows a double headed steam train take the viaduct line and head for Kings Cross.



This area of waste land looks very different to when i first visited. The dumped sofas, and matresses have been replaced by this sea of wild flowers.



A 1960's colour shot over looking Holbeck shed and the now demolished Weston streets. The land where the houses stand is the area where the wild flower meadow now is .



The hidden world of the Autumn roof garden.

Autumn is a great time of year to photograph disused railways, I like the orange, reds and rust colours of the rails and leaves here. This part of the viaduct runs parallel to Domestic Road. It's always sad to see an old railway derelict and overgrown like this, the man hours that went into building them left to waste.
One side of the track remains rusting in situ, while the other was lifted a long time ago. I'm not sure why they left the rail reclamation job half done







Above the City shot looking across Bridge Road towards the Farnley direction. I was surprised to see this kind of track construction across a bridge. I hadn't realised the track was raised up so much. I guess the (now removed) track ballast usually hid this from view. These solid oak timber blocks provide a strong fixing for the track plate bolts.



A decision was taken not to include the viaduct line during the Leeds electrification scheme, the viaduct was taken out of service in 1988. Some reports say the tight curves of the viaduct at the station end would have been problamatic to erect electric catenary, others say it was simply to reduce maintenance costs.



The Holbeck subways.

I love these subways and ginnels around the viaduct, there great for atmospheric photos. These dark ginnels, and secluded nooks and crannies around the railways are a perfect location for a thriving Red light district, this area used to be littered with used condoms and syringes. A good attempt has been made to clean up this area recently. You can see the broken fences have been boarded up to try stop the waste ground been used for prostitution. I once visited the viaduct for some night time shots, and got more of an eye full than i bargained for from this high vantage point lol 




Slipway.

Those Victorian sure knew how to build some amazing structures.
This tall skew arch forms part of an old right of way from Bridge Road to David Street. The pathway still exists in it's enterity, but is seldom used these days. You can see a much smaller subway runs underneath the Midland railway line beyond. Such is the angle of this subway you can't really see it exists until you approach head on.



Try build one of these after a few pints!



This is the other end of the tall skew arch under the viaduct. I'm amazed how those Victorians fitted everything together here. This is a great location for photography. It's not hard to imagine a cold foggy night, with a cloaked figure clutching a leather bag for a Jack the Ripper scene.



This is the much smaller subway built in 1846 by the Midland railway. The subway has a slight kink in it for no apparent reason. The sun is in the right position to highlight the interior tiles nicely here. You can see the subway has been extended to accomodate extra track above at a later date. Today hardly anyone uses these ginnels, there pretty much a forgotten part of old Holbeck. 



Scuttleway

This place was littered with old fridges and gas cannisters when i first looked down here four years ago. It's good to see it's been cleaned up since then. The bend in the subway becomes more apparent once inside, you can see the tunnel linning is also different. The white glazed brick looks to be cleaner, and better quality at the far end. The glazed brick radiates the entire arch roof in that section. They have discoloured badly in this addition, and they've only been used half way up the wall, a stone arch construction completes the roof here.



Copyright Vince Mathers.
Old archive shot taken in the late 80's just prior to the viaduct line closing.



2010 comparison shot showing the changes to the Leeds skyline.



In every City you seem to find the same type of buisness's using railway arches to trade. This cluttered triangle of land is sandwiched between the viaduct and Midland mills. The usual suspect scrap yards, builders, and car repairs can still be found along the Bath road area.



Detail shot of the iron and rivet work on the Water Lane bridge. The paintwork on this bridge looks in good condition from below, it's interesting to see it's a little worse for wear close to hand.



Looking down from the viaduct at the Hol beck culvert below.



In the opposite direction



Copyright © Michael Kaye.

A 1986 shot at the start of the viaduct looking towards the City. The Kays catalogue building has since been demolished, Bridgewater place now dominates this view today. The viaduct line would be closed for good in two years time.



Abandoned mill goit under a disused railway.

The Mill Green goit was a 50 yard long tunnel that carried a water course from the nearby Low beck, the goit powered the nearby Holbeck corn mill. The word 'goit' only seems to be used in Yorkshire, it's a term used locally for a man made water course. The tunnel dates back to 1882 when the Farnley viaduct line was built. I really like the black engineering bricks the London & North Western railway used to build there structures. 



The far end of this bleak 50 yard long tunnel has been infilled. There was no sign of any channel constructed to carry the water through the tunnel, it was a solid concrete floor. The tunnel was also relatively free from junk, and suprisingly bone dry inside, that's not bad for a 126 year old abandoned subterranen structure.



A 1940's archive shot of the same portal. Workmen with wheel barrows can be seen inside, the goit is disused by this time. The Mill Green goit would have been abandoned and filled in when electricity came to the City.



This is the infilled portal at the far end of the tunnel.



There's even less clues the Mill Green goit ran through the other side. In a few years time Mother Nature will have reclaimed the North portal for good.



This overgrown subway can be found about 50 yards away from the goit. This was part of a pathway under the railway from Oswald Grove to Brown Lane. The houses were demolished in the late 60's. Today this area is effectively cut off by industrial units on either side.







Back to the Hol beck culvert ,the disused Holbeck viaduct can be seen above.

Today this is quite a photogenic culvert meandering through the heart of the City, but this tranquil looking stream once powered the Mills and industry around Holbeck during the industrial revolution. The Hol beck is a natural watercourse that was canalised with setted floor, and stone walls in the 1840's. The water in the Hol beck was once badly polluted by chemicals and industrial waste, but these days the water is clean enough for fresh water fish.



This 1948 comparison shot shows the Hol beck cluttered with old tyres, and looking rather less photogenic.



Looking down to the same area in 2010.



City Oasis.

Autumn berries ripen along the retaining wall of the Hol beck these days, a stark contrast to the smoking chimneys of yesteryear.



It isn't until you get down into the culvert that you see how wide it is in places. Walking along Water lane you wouldn't realise the pavement was cantalivered over the beck. The bridge in the distance carries Globe road across the culvert. The cantaliver beams and railings were erected in 1904.



These arches are situated underneath the Globe road bridge, a type of chute overflow is at the end of each arch.



Evidence of various chutes, outfalls, leat gates and sluices can still be found along the beck.



I nicknamed this place 'Scrabblers hole' due to the way it was accessed. It was a rather confined entrance to say the least. I'm not sure what function this little side chamber had, two large stone bowls were built on brick plinths, matching holes were in the top that i presume carried large diameter pipes at one time. The 1929 map shows Monk bridge bobbin works was built directly above here. 




I've had to compress this to fit it in one report. But you can see it in more detail on my blog here
http://blogs.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=blog.view&friendId=265602590&blogId=539964126

It might interest local guys!

Thanks for looking


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## Alansworld (Oct 20, 2010)

What a truly fascinating report. I always love to see before/after pics like yours.
Thank you very much for this in-depth study.

Alan


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## jjstenso (Oct 20, 2010)

Phill,

I absolutely love this, fantastic information. Well done.


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## KooK. (Oct 20, 2010)

Nice one, I remember seeing that little path under the bridge a while ago, I love how sharp it is!


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## pricejs (Oct 20, 2010)

Awesome report Phil. Well done.


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## Foxylady (Oct 20, 2010)

Fantastic stuff as always, Phill. I really loved this...so many interesting remains, together with the delightful meadow and culvert as it's become now. Pure bliss!


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## borntobemild (Oct 20, 2010)

Always a pleasure to read your posts Phill. Must take a mosey round next time i'm up at Elland Road.


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## danjbudd (Oct 21, 2010)

Fantastic report and brilliant pics Phill. I work in the Leeds and regularly pass over alot of the bridges you featured, now I need to start looking down !! Cheers !


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## scrappy (Oct 22, 2010)

now thats a great report, a really interesting read. thanks


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## TK421 (Oct 23, 2010)

Top dollar research as always Phil, really enjoyed reading this, and your photos are just superb, thanks very much for the tour of Holbeck, next time I pass it on the train, I will look out for some of these features!


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## hydealfred (Nov 1, 2010)

Absolute gem of a report - love the colour shots of the 9F and the 31 and those Mark 1 coaches - superb  I really like the Then & Now shots. Thanks for posting.


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## scribble (Nov 7, 2010)

That epitomised what sites like this are for. What a stunning documentation of an area's history!Wonderful photos - especially with comparisons - and fascinating details. Thank you.


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## gingrove (Nov 7, 2010)

Now I know what sort of standard I should be aiming for ! Fantastic pictures Thanks


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## davidralph (Nov 8, 2010)

Just brilliant! There should be more reports like these.


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